In the Photographer’s Blog we are characterized by making things easier (photographically speaking, of course), sure that when you started photography questions and doubts arose, many of them related to the emphasis on photography, that is why today we are giving you the answers, because it is true that once the first question arises and you start researching , new ones arise ?. Let’s do it, if you want, find your camera and check it out while you read, that’s the best way to understand things.
This is the action by which we realize that the part of the image that we want, our main reason, is clearly visible (although the rest is blurry), it is like when short-sighted people put on their glasses and have a clear view of the What we used to see blurry ?.
- You should know that you focus not only on the subject.
- But everything that is at the same distance.
- Because what you focus is not said distance but distance and.
- Depending on the depth of field you mark.
- You will focus more or less elements in front of and behind that distance.
That’s why there’s the trick when it’s hard to focus something, for example at night, which is to focus in another direction where it’s lit, manually focus and rethink the desired subject. If you’ve focused at the same distance as your subject, it’ll be clear.
This is the focus area of the image. The higher the number f/ (p. E. g. F/22), the greater the depth of field, so the image area will be more focused. The smaller the f/ number, i. e. the greater the aperture (p. E. g. , F / 1. 8), lower depth of field and reduced focus area. To immerse yourself in depth of field, you have this complete article, although surely this chart and these photos will help you.
Now, if you prefer videos, does Mario explain it to you in the movies here?
The selective approach is a composive resource that is just focusing only a small part of the scene and stirring the rest to give more importance to the approach, for which large openings are used. The result is generally very attractive to the eye and is widely used in photography as an artistic resource, such as the photo above frozen plants.
Bokeh, also known as blur, is actually a quality of the lenses, depending on the number of sheets and their construction, cause a different blur, there are those who say that the rounded bokeh is more beautiful and who says otherwise, but by Taste?The truth is that a bright bokeh is visually very attractive. In short, bokeh is an aesthetic quality of blur.
A good bokeh is characterized by
The picture below is a bokeh, but with this information, do you think it would be considered a good bokeh?
Blur also means blurry, but in this case, there are those who associate it with any blur, either caused by an object placed between the lens and the subject, for example, Vaseline, Mist or any other element to create a blurry or similar effect. . . On the other hand, it is associated with motion blur, that is, a blur that attempts to capture movement in the scene, as is the case with scanning.
Manual Focus Mode (MF) is the classic focus mode, you’re the one who moves your lens’s focus ring until you see that the subject you want to focus on is. This requires a little more practice but in some situations it is more efficient and the disadvantage is that in very fast situations, this is not the most appropriate.
The autofocus (AF), autofocus, or autofocus of your camera is the function by which it automatically focuses, although this decision depends on different aspects, such as the type of focus or focus area (these issues will also be Answer below).
There are several types of autofocus, and these are called differently depending on the camera brand, but there are basically two (detailed below):
In some cameras, there is a type of focus (AF-A or AI Focus) that tells the camera to choose between them; is intended for static subjects but can trigger a movement at any time. it always works well, so it’s best to try it on your camera (if you have it) and decide for yourself whether it’s right to use it in these situations or better if you always decide whether you want a simple or continuous approach.
With a simple approach, pressing the focus button (this can be the middle trigger or, if we dissociate it, the button associated with the focus), focuses the subject we selected by calculating the distance between it. When you hear a beep (if you haven’t turned it off), the focus is locked. You will also see an illuminated circle in the viewfinder indicating that what is at the AF point is clear. If this circle flashes, the focus has not been done.
With continuous focus, if the theme we have selected moves, the focus will continue to work and will continually seek to focus on the subject, in this case the beep will not be heard, because the focus is not blocked, but continues to look. (as in prices from scratch?).
Continuous focus is necessary when the subject moves at a very high speed, such as a bicycle, car or bird. To photograph people walking or moving, for example, it would not be necessary.
Be careful when photographing a static object in continuous focus mode, as it will look for focus all the time and you will most likely not be able to focus well, especially if you are moving the camera, even a little.
This question depends a lot on the person and the situation, although here are some suggestions so you can answer it more easily yourself.
AF points are those dots or squares that appear in the viewfinder or on the screen of our camera, when these squares light up indicate that what is in this or these points will develop.
The number of AF points depends on the camera: my first camera had 9, my current camera has 45 AF points. The more focus points there are, the greater the accuracy of deciding exactly how much you want to focus.
Let’s take a closer look at this in the next question
As a general rule the cameras are preconfigured to choose the AF point(s) to be used by themselves, however, this is not recommended, especially when there are several elements in the scene, which is extremely common, so ideally decide. what points you’ll use.
Many people use the center point, which is usually the most accurate, concentrates and then rethinks to comply, for example, with the three-thirds rule, which carries risks and can lead to a focus error.
Personally, and since I do many very wide openings, I prefer to choose the only point located on the subject I want to focus on.
All this brings us to the priority areas (a little lower), but first let’s look at another focal point theme.
There are two types of AF points, horizontal and vertical and crossed:
Depending on the camera, you will have a single crossing point (in this case it will be the center point) or several.
The focus area is the area that we want the camera to take into account when performing autofocus. The options depend on each camera, although in general they are similar. I put the generic or the most common ones you can find. In case of doubt you will find all the information in the instructions of your camera.
Sometimes the most important thing in a scene is to focus, if the main subject is not clear the image does not make sense, imagine a macro photo in which you want to highlight the eyes of a toad that looks at you in depth, if those eyes are blurry, the photo will not be attractive.
Now imagine you’re photographing your daughter playing basketball, she’s about to score a triple that will make her team win in the most important game of the season, what interests you?Capture that moment when the ball is perfectly sharp when it passes. I imagine capturing the moment even if there’s a little focus, right?
Fortunately, some cameras offer two options, prioritize shooting, which would be the right choice for this second case, because the focus is exactly in the right place or not, you can shoot; or prioritize focus, no matter how hard you try to take the photo, if the subject you’ve selected isn’t sharp, you won’t be able to pull the trigger. Recommended for the first case and others. See if you have this option in your camera’s instruction manual.
The minimum focus distance on the photo is set by the target. Each lens has a distance below which it cannot focus. So if your target is going crazy and you find out you can’t focus, is it possible that it’s too close?.
The cameras, by default, have the autofocus function on the shutter, you squeeze it in the middle, it concentrates and when you press it completely captures the scene, however, some cameras allow you to separate this function from the shot, i. e. you can choose another button to focus as a shutter. You can see if your camera has this option and how to activate it in your instruction manual. Normally, mid-range cameras usually have a button for that called AF-ON or AF-L. But I said, it’s better to look for the focus dissociation function in the manual, because in the introductory chambers, you can find it differently.
While this is personal and everyone uses what’s most comfortable for them, I’ll tell you some situations where many photographers prefer their focus to be distant and why.
This is the help that some cameras offer during manual focus. It artificially colors the focus area and this happens when, if you rotate the focus ring, the color area changes (the color depends on the camera model, some even offer several options to choose from). It’s not 100% foolproof, but it tends to work well and is very useful for manual focus.
In the next image, you can see in yellow what is developing
Hyperfocal distance is one in which, when focused, you get the focus from half that distance to infinity, for example, if the hyperfocal distance is 8 meters, what is between 4 my infinity will develop.
It is a way of expanding the depth of field. It is widely used in landscape and night photography, for example, although another of its most common uses is street photography.
This depends on several factors, but to calculate it it is better to use a calculator like Photopills.
If you want to delve into hyperfocal, don’t miss this article
To focus in automatic mode, an focus engine is required. In some cases it is in the camera and others in the lens. When the camera does not have a focus engine, it is necessary that the lens has a built-in focus engine, otherwise all that remains is to focus manually.
For example, for Nikon cameras without focus engine, the lenses must be AF-S Nikkor (or AF-P for video). In the case of Canon, they have manufactured all lenses since the launch of the EF system with their focus. engine, so they don’t need to incorporate the focus engine into the body. Yes, there are different focus systems (STM, smoother and quieter; USM, faster; and if it’s not one of the above, it will be a DC, which is neither as fast nor so silent).
And now? the million-dollar question
I leave you with some quick tips to achieve good concentration and overcome all your problems with:
What doubts do you have? Don’t miss this detailed guide to focusing on photography, if you’re still not sure something writes your question in the comments and we’ll try to resolve it as soon as possible. And don’t forget to share this article, more than one person will thank you. Me too?. Thanks and I’ll see you soon.